Before the start of my Swan Island Dahlia workshop my friend and host Eloise Carson and I decided to play around with some Rain-X to create some fun images. I first tried this technique several years ago and while I like the look of some of them I still find it to be a bit of a novelty BUT still a lot of fun to play around with and you never know what you’ll come up with! Our set up was easy, we used two buckets and a sheet of clear glass with our flower in a small vase (you don’t want the vase to show up in your images -so the smaller the better). We placed the vase approx. 6 inches underneath the glass. We sprayed Rain-X on the sheet of glass and allowed it to dry. Then we used a spray bottle and sprayed water on top of the glass, it beaded up and created several water drops. Placing our camera parallel to the glass we photographed the drops experimenting with several different f-stops. I liked between an f/8 and an f/13 but some of my best effects were created focusing on the flower below the glass and letting the drops fall soft. I’ll share some of those later.
Rose ~ f/3.2
The above image was a vertical capture of a pink Dahlia. I used Nik Color Efex 4 (use code BAA to save 15%) Bleach Bypass filter and On One Software’s Perfect Effects 3 soft vignette to create the look.
When photographing flowers I always try to remember that the backside of flowers often have as much interest as the front. I decided on a slightly square crop for this image.
Eloise and I drove around the Oregon coast and happened upon this old cannery. I loved the reddish orange building with all the piers so I decided to create a Mini-World from the 3 image HDR capture. I used a variety of texture overlays and a frame from On One.
There are lots of different ways to create mini worlds; below is an easy method.
You can create mini-worlds from a great variety of images. I like to start out with either a panoramic image or an image with a landscape orientation. Open your image in Photoshop. Make sure it is in 8-bit mode (IMAGE > MODE > 8-BIT).
Next you will change the shape of the image from a rectangle to a square by hitting IMAGE > IMAGE SIZE. When the dialogue box opens uncheck the Constrain Proportions box. Then change the width to whatever the height is.
Next, rotate the image 180 degrees (IMAGE > IMAGE ROTATION > 180 degrees).
Now go to FILTER > DISTORT > POLAR CO-ORDINATES. Check the Rectangular to Polar box.) Then hit OK.
To clean up the seam duplicate the image (CtrlJ) and then hit Ctrl T for the Transform Tool. (If your image is in a floating window—a sort of framed view—you will not be able to rotate the upper layer. To get the image out of the floating window, click on the square between the x and the – symbol in the upper right corner of the frame.)
Next rotate the image in either a clockwise or a counterclockwise direction by clicking anywhere outside of the transform frame. The cursor becomes a small, curved double arrow. Drag it to rotate the upper layer so that it overlaps the seam.
Next add an Inverse Layer Mask by holding the ALT key while clicking on the Layer Mask icon. Your Layer Mask will be filled with black; paint with a soft brush at 50 to 80 % opacity with the foreground color set to white and you can paint away the seam. You may need to adjust the opacity and the size of the brush when feathering the seam.
______________________________________________________________ denise ippolito
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2-Day Staten Island NY Seminar with Arthur Morris & Denise Ippolito
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